You hear stories about your ultra-conscientious neighbors trading their old energy-devouring water heaters and HVAC units for the new energy-efficient models, putting up solar panels and installing the dual flush toilets. Suddenly your effort to cycle out incandescent light bulbs starts to feel trivial.

And you start to wonder, if you are more confined by budget than your earth-friendly neighbors and pals, is going green worth it?

The trick is figuring out what works for you and your lifestyle, according to Mark Lewison, academic director of the Interior Design Department at The Art Institute of California – Hollywood. “Find an improvement that makes sense for your bottom line and then look for green options in that area of improvement.”

Reducing energy costs and decreasing wear on the planet over the long term is as easy as turning the lights down low. “That’s where you get the most bang for your buck,” says Joan Jackson, associate professor of interior design at The Illinois Institute of Art – Chicago. “Dimmers are cheap and extend the life of the bulb five to 10 times.”

Interior design associate professor Eve Fineman adds that a simple and inexpensive switch in the type of bulb you use makes an impact. “An LED light has a really long lamp life and draws much less energy.”

Jackson also suggests insulating your windows as a simple way to keep down costs and keep your home comfortable in both the cold and heat. And what’s the easiest way to conserve energy? According to Jackson it’s as simple as unplugging items when you’re not using them. “Most people don’t realize that your appliances are using energy when they’re plugged in, even when they’re off,” she says.

Going green is not just about saving energy and the outside environment. Your indoor air quality counts too. Fineman says the paint most of us used in the past was actually filled with volatile organic compounds (VOCs) that are bad for you to breathe in. That new paint smell was actually toxic. Luckily, most paint sold today has low or no VOCs.

If you do decide on more costly upgrades like energy-efficient appliances or sustainable and rapidly renewable materials like bamboo flooring, you can still see long-term savings, says Fineman. “Now there are ways to assess and compare your cost up-front versus how much the cost savings over a 10-year period will be,” she says. “Most of the time consumers see that it’s definitely worth the investment, because they’ll save a lot over the long term.”

”Any green or sustainable improvements that can be made to a home should increase a home’s value as a whole in addition to helping the owners save money,” Lewison adds.

All three experts agree, whether you’re trying to help your bottom line or the environment, the way to go is green.

However, if you aren’t trying to sell your home right now, and have been putting off a remodeling job this might just be the best time to tackle the project. Why you ask?

Just as the cost of homes is dropping, the cost of remodeling is dropping- including building materials and contractor’s fees. And while it may be difficult to think about spending money on your home when the values are falling- taking advantage of lower remodeling costs could be a great investment if you are not planning on selling your home anytime soon.

As disclosed in a study by HousingEconomics.com, the number of building permits in the United States has decreased in 2008 by 41% from 2007. This means less people are building, which can be good for a consumer trying to get competitive pricing from a contractor.

Not only can your contractor charge less for materials (because they are paying less) but they are also willing to charge less for labor in order to secure more work.

Even DIYers can save money on renovations right now just by saving on materials. For example, according to the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), framing lumber prices are the lowest they have been in 4 years.

The trick, of course, if you do have a home sale anywhere in your future, is to assess the current value of your home and the value that your remodel will add to your home. When you sell, you will only recoup some of the value in your resale so you want to make sure you are not investing too much more than what you may get in return. For a good idea of national remodeling costs and recouped costs, visit Remodeling magazine’s cost vs. recoup report. Note: If you do hire a contractor, make sure they have insurance to cover them in case they are injured on your property.

1. A passive solar design

This is useful for natural heating and cooling of the house. Make sure there are not any skylights or greenhouse rooms in the house because that would mean too much heat gain in the building and will be very hot.

2. Attic spaces ventilation

Attic spaces can also accumulate heat, especially in hot climates, thereby causing the house to become very hot. On the other hand, moisture will remain in these attic spaces which are not ventilated, causing the wood to rot and smell.

3. Use of recycled or renewable materials

Since you are getting a green home, you should ensure that the materials used to build the house are not damaging to the environment. Some examples are using waste wood to build decks, use materials that are locally produced and can be renewed easily or recycled wood for the flooring of the house.

4. Use of safe materials

Products that are water based, non-toxic and biodegradable are more environmentally friendly so these should be used to build the house. Ensure that there are no materials that contain ozone depleting chemicals which are detrimental to the environment.

5. Site protection

The surroundings of the house is equally important, thus, ensure that the natural vegetation and animal habitats are protected from any unnecessary harm, especially if you need to do any additional constructions to the estate.

Inspection

Periodically check over your brick home. Check the interior walls for any sign of moisture or damage. When inspecting the exterior walls, it is important to look for:

Plant Growth – Cut plants, such as ivy, as close to the surface as possible. Do not pull.

Weep Holes – These small holes at the bottom of the brickwork allow moisture to drain out of the wall. Clean them out if they are plugged.

Efflorescence – A white, salty deposit on the brick surface is a sign of water penetration. You can clean this with a stiff brush, or a brush with water. If hard deposits have formed, a chemical cleaner is needed. Do not power wash.

Mortar – Mortar is less durable than brick, and can be maintained by “repointing.” To repoint, chip the old mortar out to a depth of ½-inch to ¾-inch. Then dampen the joints with water, and repack with new mortar. Wipe off the excess with a damp cloth. Repointing is normally recommended every 25 years, but every 50 years isn’t usually too long in mild climates.

Damaged Bricks – To replace a brick, remove the mortar around it to a depth of 4 inches. Dislodge the brick, and clean the cavity. Next, dampen the cavity with a touch of water, spread mortar onto the bottom of the cavity, and replace the brick. You can also temporarily repair the brick by carefully spreading a sandy cement mixture, “render,” over its surface.

Selecting Bricks and Mortar

When repairing a wall, choose bricks and mortar that are similar to the existing products. The age and location of the building can be used to determine the appropriate products. When selecting bricks and mortar, climate and function are also important. It is important to check the ASTM Standards, in particular ASTM C216, “Standard Specification for Selecting Brick,” and ASTM C270-04, “Standard Specification for Mortar for Unit Masonry,” for appropriate recommendations.

Use a Sealant?

Although there is a great deal of debate on the subject, some experts recommend using a chemical coating or sealant to prevent water from penetrating the brick. There are two main types of sealants:

Films – Films cover the surface of the brick, repelling water and usually preventing markings like graffiti from sticking. They tend to leave a glossy or darkened appearance. While they keep water out, they also keep water in, not allowing the brick to breathe. Only use when brickwork is dry. If moisture is trapped in the brick and a freeze/thaw cycle occurs, spalling will result.

Penetrants – Penetrants penetrate the surface and coat the brick pores, making them water repellent. Penetrants are translucent, and allow the brick to breathe. As a result, they would be beneficial in cold, moist climates, or on chimneys and parapets where they are exposed to harsh conditions.

Films and penetrants cost about 10 cents per square foot. Depending on the product, films need to be reapplied at least every five years, while sealants can last up to 15 years.

New Types of Masonry

Autoclaved Aerated Concrete A precast, non-organic, non-toxic and airtight lightweight building stone. It has good acoustic and thermal insulative properties.

Mortarless Brick Veneer Concrete bricks cast in special shapes that can be installed by anyone, and without the use of mortar.

Split-Face Concrete Block Architectural concrete masonry units that have a rough, stone-like texture that do not require a decorative finish.

Additional Sources of Information:

The Brick Industry Association provides a great deal of technical information and can provide you with technical assistance.

The Masonry Society is a professional, technical, and educational association dedicated to the advancement of knowledge on masonry.

In the past, common wisdom suggested that maintaining a constant temperature was better than adjusting a thermostat up and down. In actuality, turning a thermostat down or up a degree or more will always save energy (and money). The closer the inside air temperature is to the outside air temperature, the less heat or air-conditioning will be lost via heat transference (the principle that heat moves from hot to cold). Thus, by heating or cooling the air less, less energy (and money) is required.

How much money can be saved? According to the government's Energy Star calculator, as much as a $200 savings per year can be realized in a single-family home. On average, a homeowner will save three percent on their energy bill for every degree a thermostat is set back.

Some of the features that are available in many programmable thermostats are: digital, backlit displays; touch pad screen programming; voice and/or phone programming; hold/vacation features; indicators that signal malfunctioning HVAC systems; and smart recovery features which sense the time it will take to reach the next set-point temperature and react accordingly.

There are models for a variety of schedules, including a 7-day, 5+2-day or a 5-1-1-day. Seven day models are best if daily schedules change often - for example, if family members are at home earlier on some days than others. This type of thermostat provides the most flexibility, and allows for different programs for different days -- usually with at least four possible temperature periods per day. Five plus two day models use the same schedule every weekday and another for weekends, while five plus one plus one models keep separate schedules Monday through Friday, and then Saturday and Sunday.

Most programmable thermostats use low voltage wiring and can be installed using wires connecting the old thermostat for operation. It’s a good idea to upgrade an old manual thermostat to a programmable unit when replacing a central air conditioning unit or heating system because they are more accurate and will improve the efficiency of any new system.

Finally, most homes use just one thermostat to control the entire house. If a home has multiple heating or cooling zones, a programmed setback thermostat for each zone can help improve comfort, convenience and energy savings throughout the house. While temperature should be set for individual comfort, here are suggested guidelines. In winter, a thermostat setting of 68°F while family members are awake and lower when they are asleep will keep energy costs down. In summer, setting the thermostat at 78°F when a home is unoccupied, and slightly cooler when family members are present will also result in energy savings. During vacation periods, the “hold” setting can be used to set the thermostat at a constant, energy efficient temperature. It can be set to a high temperature (85°F or slightly higher) rather than completely turning off the AC off in the warmer months. In colder weather, it can be set a lower temperature (55°F) so that water pipes don’t freeze. 

A programmable thermostat can be an energy-saver, because family members can adjust the heating and cooling system to operate according to a pre-set schedule, As a result, the HVAC equipment can run at more energy-efficient rates during times when residents are away at work or school, asleep or when a house is not occupied during vacation periods.

In the past, common wisdom suggested that maintaining a constant temperature was better than adjusting a thermostat up and down. In actuality, turning a thermostat down or up a degree or more will always save energy (and money). The closer the inside air temperature is to the outside air temperature, the less heat or air-conditioning will be lost via heat transference (the principle that heat moves from hot to cold). Thus, by heating or cooling the air less, less energy (and money) is required.

How much money can be saved? According to the government's Energy Star calculator, as much as a $200 savings per year can be realized in a single-family home. On average, a homeowner will save three percent on their energy bill for every degree a thermostat is set back.

Some of the features that are available in many programmable thermostats are: digital, backlit displays; touch pad screen programming; voice and/or phone programming; hold/vacation features; indicators that signal malfunctioning HVAC systems; and smart recovery features which sense the time it will take to reach the next set-point temperature and react accordingly.

There are models for a variety of schedules, including a 7-day, 5+2-day or a 5-1-1-day. Seven day models are best if daily schedules change often - for example, if family members are at home earlier on some days than others. This type of thermostat provides the most flexibility, and allows for different programs for different days -- usually with at least four possible temperature periods per day. Five plus two day models use the same schedule every weekday and another for weekends, while five plus one plus one models keep separate schedules Monday through Friday, and then Saturday and Sunday.

Most programmable thermostats use low voltage wiring and can be installed using wires connecting the old thermostat for operation. It’s a good idea to upgrade an old manual thermostat to a programmable unit when replacing a central air conditioning unit or heating system because they are more accurate and will improve the efficiency of any new system.

Finally, most homes use just one thermostat to control the entire house. If a home has multiple heating or cooling zones, a programmed setback thermostat for each zone can help improve comfort, convenience and energy savings throughout the house. While temperature should be set for individual comfort, here are suggested guidelines. In winter, a thermostat setting of 68°F while family members are awake and lower when they are asleep will keep energy costs down. In summer, setting the thermostat at 78°F when a home is unoccupied, and slightly cooler when family members are present will also result in energy savings. During vacation periods, the “hold” setting can be used to set the thermostat at a constant, energy efficient temperature. It can be set to a high temperature (85°F or slightly higher) rather than completely turning off the AC off in the warmer months. In colder weather, it can be set a lower temperature (55°F) so that water pipes don’t freeze.

Aluminum wiring, used in some homes from the mid 1960's to the early 1970's, is a potential fire hazard. How safe is aluminum wiring?

According to the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, fires and even deaths have been reported to have been caused by this hazard. Problems due to aluminum wiring expansion , or much more likely micro-fretting and arcing at the aluminum wiring connectors, can cause overheating at connections between the wire and devices (switches and outlets) or at aluminum wire splices. The connections can become hot enough to start a fire without ever tripping a circuit breaker!

The photos shown above are not the most dramatic catastrophes linked to fires caused by aluminum wiring. But these are conditions that are found in many homes with aluminum wiring, confirming that this is a real, common, and widespread hazard.

CPSC research shows that "homes wired with aluminum wire manufactured before 1972 are 55 times more likely to have one or more connections reach "Fire Hazard Conditions" than are homes wired with copper. "Post 1972" aluminum wire is also a concern. Introduction of the aluminum wire "alloys" in 1972 time frame did not solve most of the connection failure problems.

Aluminum wiring is still permitted and used for certain applications, including residential service entrance wiring and single-purpose higher amperage circuits such as 240V air conditioning or electric range circuits. The fire risk from single purpose circuits is much less than for branch circuits.

But it's not necessarily because of a "new alloy" as some folks assert. It's because there are enormously fewer connections (four or six rather than 30 or 40 per circuit) and thus statistically a smaller chance of a connection failure. These connections do still burn up, as indicated by field reports.

The 10 Most Common Home Inspection Problems

1. Faulty wiring—open junction boxes, amperage mismatches, no wire nuts on wires.

The cure: Fix junction boxes; upgrade to at least 100 amps.

2. Poor grading and drainage—spongy soil around the foundation, signs of leaking in basement.

The cure: Regrade so that grounds slopes away from house for 10 feet; remove porous material around foundation.

3. Faulty gutters—clogged or bent gutters, water not channeled away from house.

The cure: Preventive maintenance; gutters of adequate size, splash pans to divert run-off.

4. Basement dampness—water stains, powdery residue on walls, mold or mildew.

The cure: Repair gutters to channel water away from house; apply waterproof coatings to basement.

5. Roof problems—brittle or curled shingles; broken or missing flashings.

The cure: Apply new shingle, or tear off if needed (usually after two re-roofs ); replacing flashings, especially around chimneys and other protrusions.

6. Foundation flaws—cracks in foundation, sloping floors, sticking doors or windows.

The cure: Fill cracks with silicon caulking or epoxy; apply waterproof coating to exterior.

7. Poor upkeep—needs repainting, worn carpeting, cracked driveway.

The cure: Give the house a minor facelift.

8. Faulty plumbing—inadequate water pressure, slow drains, signs of leaks on ceilings.

The cure: Clean and rout drains; reseat toilet with new wax ring, repair leaks.

9. Poor ventilation—extreme heat in attic, vapor condensation.

The cure: Ensure that roof soffits are not blocked; install additional roof vents; vent bathroom and kitchen fans outside.

10. Defective heating—cracks in the heat exchanger or water tank; carbon monoxide leaks.

The cure: Reseal chimney flues; replace sacrificial anode in water heater.

One-Time Tasks

1. Install smoke detectors as necessary (They need to be installed in all bedrooms). Install carbon monoxide detectors, according to manufacturer’s recommendations.
2. Make any electrical improvements recommended in the home inspection report.
3. Remove any wood/soil contact to prevent rot and insect damage.
4. Change the locks on all doors. Use a dead bolt for better security and to minimize insurance costs.
5. Correct trip hazards such as broken or uneven walks and driveways, loose or torn carpet or uneven flooring.
6. Correct unsafe stairways and landings. (Railings missing, loose, too low, et cetera.)
7. Have all chimneys inspected before operating any of these appliances.
8. Locate and mark the shut-offs for the heating, electrical and plumbing systems.
9. Label the circuits in electrical panels.
10. If there is a septic system, have the tank pumped and inspected. If the house is on a private water supply (well), set up a regular testing procedure for checking water quality.

Regular Maintenance Items

11. Clean the gutters in the spring and fall.
12. Check for damaged roofing and flashing materials twice a year.
13. Cut back trees and shrubs from the house walls, roof and air conditioning system as needed.
14. Clean the tracks on horizontal sliding windows annually, and ensure the drain holes are clear.
15. Test ground fault circuit interrupters, carbon monoxide detectors and smoke detectors using the test button, monthly.
16. Service furnace or boiler yearly.
17. Check furnace filters, humidifiers and electronic air cleaners monthly.
18. Check the bathtub and shower caulking monthly and improve promptly as needed.
19. Shut off outdoor water faucets in the fall.
20. Check reversing mechanism on garage door opener monthly.
21. Check attics for evidence of leaks and condensation and make sure vents are not obstructed, at least twice a year. (Provide access into all attics and crawl spaces.)

How to Avoid the Chimney Sweep Fraud Scam

These warnings [adapted& quoting from] from the Connecticut Department of Consumer Protection can help consumers avoid getting scammed by a fake chimney service company:

• To find a reputable chimney sweep, ask friends for referrals, look in the business section of your telephone directory under "Chimney Cleaning,” or visit the Chimney Safety Institute of America web site at www.csia.org. You can also visit the site for the National Chimney Sweep Guild (NCSG) at www.ncsg.org.Many sweeps apply for certification by CSIA or membership in the NCSG. These organizations promote professionalism in the industry by testing applicants and offering continuing education opportunities to keep members up to date on changing technology and fire safety.>
• NEVER hire a chimney sweep who shows up at your door uninvited. There are many home improvement scams that commonly take advantage of unsuspecting homeowners; fly-by-night chimney sweep scams is one of the most prevalent
• Be aware of telemarketing offers where someone offers you a very, very low price to come and clean your chimney. If someone is trying to get in at a very low price or is calling you out of the blue, they may just want to get their foot in the door, because they're really looking to do some type of repair work.
• Some scammers provide photos they claim are from inside or outside your chimney, as evidence to convince you that your chimney needs repair. You have to be sure the photos are actually from your house. So any pictures that are provided to justify getting work done should include something in the photo or in the background that identifies it as your home
• Some scam artists show debris from a chimney as an indicator of something that's broken. If the company claims that this debris shows that your liner is broken or collapsed that you need a new liner system, get a second opinion, or have them show you where it is broken.
• Be aware of attempts to frighten you. If you get the feeling that a salesperson or sweeper is using terms like carbon monoxide poisoning or house fire in a way that feels alarming, you should get another opinion. This could very well be a hard sell tactic.
• If you are being pushed to make an immediate decision, then make the decision to look for someone else.